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SUPERFINE WOOL PURCHASING GUIDE

UNDERSTANDING SUPERFINE WOOL FABRICS AND GARMENTS.


Why fabrics of superfine wool from traditionally recognized weavers are different?
Why are single malt whiskeys very different from industrially produced malt whiskeys? For both almost 100% of their content is water and alcohol, but you can taste the difference with the first sip. The same happens with diamonds; they are made of carbon like coal but are so completely different! Suits and, more generally, garments made with superfine wool, are the same as single malt whiskeys or diamonds: chemically superfine wool is like generic wool, but follow the yarn to understand the difference.

What is superfine wool?
Superfine wools are wools with an average fiber diameter below 17 micron, fine wools are from 17 to 19, above 19 are ordinary wools. A traditional but still very common method of indicating wool mean fiber diameter is the Super S: higher numbers indicate lower mean fiber diameter.

What is the average fiber diameter?
It is the measurement in microns of the fiber diameter. The average of these measurements in a batch of wool is called mean fiber diameter, which should not be confused with the yarn diameter. Fibers are the basic unitary elements that once twisted together form the yarn. The diameter of the yarn is called count.

Why are superfine wools better than coarser wools?
Superfine wool fibers are softer and smoother to the touch than coarser wool, but that is not all. At equal yarn count there are more superfine wool fiber in the cross section compared to normal wool, this makes the yarn stronger, softer and more even. With finer fibers it is possible to spin finer yarns, and with finer yarns it is possible to weave lighter fabrics, good for all seasons. (Yes, light fabrics of superfine wool are good even in summer!)

So it’s only about lower average fiber diameter?
No, it is not. Wool is a natural fiber, with variations in each batch. Spinning fibers into yarns, weaving them into fabrics and performing the finishing process is an art that takes experience, mixing technology with tradition. To create consistently high quality superfine wool fabrics, the finishing process consists of washing, dying, pressing and other operations that are essential to transform raw fabrics into comfortable, soft, elegant materials with iconic style.

Is wool better than cotton or synthetics?
No comparison! Wool is just a higher class. Superfine wool garments do not retain odors. If exposed to odor, for example, in a restaurant, it is enough to hang them in fresh air without the need of frequent cleaning. Wool is capable of regulating the body microclimate better than any other fiber: it keeps you warm when it is cold, but does not make you sweat when the temperature rises. It is a fiber for all seasons.

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